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Strategy & Management

Functional luxury grows while traditional luxury shrinks

As the global luxury market lost 60 million customers between 2022 and 2025, a quieter category kept growing. Functional luxury: premium objects whose relationship with the consumer is grounded in what they do. Rimowa's repairable suitcase for life. Stone Island's technically unprecedented fabrics. Both held. Sonos had the same foundation — and showed what happens when it gives way.

Luxury spent decades growing by raising prices and expanding distribution. Yet, from 2022 to 2025 the customer base had contracted from 400 million to 340 million — a return to 2013 levels — and even top spenders were telling Bain researchers they felt "betrayed." Prices soared. Creativity didn't. The aspirational middle, which had sustained the industry through several cycles, had largely withdrawn.

 

The brands that held through this period built their consumer relationships differently.

Rimowa introduced an unconditional lifetime guarantee in 2022 — not a warranty policy but a repositioning of what the purchase means. You are not buying a suitcase, you are entering a service relationship with no expiry date, backed by an in-store repair network across every city the brand operates.

Stone Island has never run a conventional advertising campaign. What it has done, obsessively since 1982, is reinvent fabric. Thermosensitive materials that shift colour with body heat. Ice-dye processes that make every garment unrepeatable. A stainless steel mesh jacket that oxidises differently on each body that wears it. The compass badge is recognised — but it does not signal wealth, but knowing.

 

Sonos built the same kind of relationship in audio. Multi-room sound that simply worked, speakers people described with real affection, an ecosystem thousands of households had invested in over years. In May 2024 a single app update broke it — volume control failed, speakers vanished mid-song, basic features disappeared. The damage was bad. What turned it catastrophic was the response: Sonos took months to restore functionality that users had lost overnight, managing the crisis so slowly that the frustration grew desperately week by week into dropout. The company estimated $100 million in revenue loss. The CEO was gone by January 2025. What made the collapse so severe was exactly what had made the loyalty so deep: people had trusted the function completely, and the function failed them.

The betrayal was proportional to the trust. The company has spent 2025 trying to rebuild — a new CEO, a public apology, a feature-by-feature restoration, a promise to "return to excellence in the core experience." Whether that arc completes is still open. But the direction of travel is telling: you cannot fix functional luxury with a campaign or a rebrand. You can only fix it by fixing the function.

 

Functional luxury is not a safer model than status luxury — it is a different model. Status luxury erodes when the logo is everywhere and the aspiration evaporates. Functional luxury erodes when the product stops delivering. Rimowa's guarantee is a promise about engineering that the brand has to keep every time someone walks into a store with a damaged wheel. Stone Island's next collection has to justify the compass logo’s heritage. Sonos had made the same implicit promise — and broke it from the inside. The category rewards those who build on something real and does not forgive those who fails to maintain the established trust.



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